Conococha   4449
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Labels

1 Caullaraju E, 5597
2 Caullaraju Central, 5637
3 Caullaraju, 5682
4 Rajo Cutac, 5355
5 Direction Huaraz
6 Direction Mojon-Chiquian-Llamac-Huayhuash
7 Jirishanca, 6095
8 Yerupaja, 6617

Details

Location: Conococha (4080 m)      by: Pedrotti Alberto
Area: Peru      Date: 29-07-2019
Every visitor who travels by bus from Lima to Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca passes through Conococha. Many of them have probably also the memory of an headache, because of the sudden altitude gain from 0 to 4200, that is, from the Panamericana along the Pacific coast to the Abra Conococha, the crossing of the Andine watershed, little outside the end of the picture on the right. When I did this on June 22, less than one month had passed since I had crossed the Thorung La, at 5400 m in Nepal (see N.26485), However, that night I felt some minor effect, which readily vanished - in the next three days i would visit Wilcahuain, cycle to Punta Callan, 4600 m (N.26074) and climb Cerro Cachijirca, 5050 m (N.26827).
What I saw that first evening from behind the glass of the bus was quite supernatural: the bus descended the bends of the Abra with the laguna already in shadow, with the last sun glowing on the far summits of Yerupajá and Jirishanca. In the vicinity of the Equator the night falls very quickly, and during the short stop at the village only shadows could be seen moving around, on the windy road, under their Quechua hats.
When, nearly 40 days later, I returned to Conococha by bicycle from Huaraz, it was already dark. I found accommodation in a room in the courtyard of a woman running a very basic restautant. The room had a bare earthy ground, and the furnishing consisted of a single bulb and of a bed. The inhabitants of a nearby space were a group of cuys, or Guinea pigs, which are the basis of a typical local dish, the picante de cuy.
The next morning, before heading towards Huayhuash, I went a little up the hill to take the present panorama, as much as the many power lines allowed - one of them is the cause of the rather unexpected ending of the panorama on the right side.

Comments

Como si dice "Panorama-Zauberer" / Panorama Magician in Italiano?
2021/02/17 05:00 , Augustin Werner
Estimado Alberto,
I instantly liked this Panorama and commented on it without even reading your comments. Only later, after reading your text, did I realize that I must have passed here myself by bus over 25 years ago (and perhaps wished the bus would make a stop allowing me to take a picture?). Luckily I no memory of altitude sickness. I visited this region after spending two weeks in Ecuador at a modestly elevated altitude. Auguri & Saluti,
2021/02/18 23:42 , Augustin Werner
Indeed, this is the "normal route" to Huaraz.
Coming from Ecuador, however, you could also have followed the Rio Santa valley, from Chimbote up to Canyon del Pato, Caraz, Yungay, Carhuaz and finally Huaraz.
At Conococha starts also the classical "Peru Great Divide" bicycle route:
https://bikepacking.com/routes/peru-great-divide/
"Zauberer" in italiano è "mago"!
Saluti Alberto
2021/02/19 00:09 , Pedrotti Alberto
Alberto è davvero un mago dei panorami.
2021/02/19 18:12 , Heinz Höra

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Pedrotti Alberto

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