Tizi-n-Ouloun   64657
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1 Tessaout valley
2 Jebel Tignousti, 3825
3 Amezri, 2250
4 Huge antenna
5 Bivouac site
6 Tizi-n-Roghoult, 3150
7 Trail to high plateau
8 Tarkeddid massif
9 Jebel Tarkeddid, 3565
10 Tessaout gorge (difficult)
11 M'goun massif
12 Aslad, 3877


Location: Tizi-n-Ouloun (2769 m)      by: Pedrotti Alberto
Area: Morocco      Date: 27-12-2010
The name of this place means "the pass of the heart". It connects the little town of Toundout to the little village of Amezri, which at 2250 m is the southern door to the M'Goun massif. After Toundout, the village where you leave the valley (fording the river the last of many times) and begin the steep phase of the ascent bears the name Imi-n-Ouloun, which means "the mouth of the heart".
The pass is 11 m higher than the Stilfserjoch and 1 m lower than the Col de l'Iseran, but is is by no means comparable to them, since here you find only a red stony piste carved in the rock.
When I arrived with my bicycle at Amezri I was encircled by a crowd of enthusiast and loudly shouting youth, who accompanied me to the gîte d'etape where I left the bicycle for all the duration of the M'Goun climb. In the confusion somebody robbed me the old Yashica 5030, my first digital camera, that I had carried as a spare. Sometimes you truly need to find a thief to get rid of old objects that you don't have the courage to throw away!
In some future tour to Morocco I must return to Amezri in order to discover if it can be reached by road also along the valley, starting from the (very harshly) asphalted road Demnate-Skoura. The valley is called "red valley of the Tessaout"; why red should be evident from the image. In any case, the village has its stock of food, and is prepared to remain isolated for several months in wintertime.
Life is not easy in these places. After leaving the bicycle, I used the two or three light hours remaining to go up, and then I threw my sleeping bag on the steep flank of the mountain. My surprise was great when, as darkness completed its descent, I realized that at maybe 200 m from me, on a no less steep flank, there was a little fire, witnessing the presence of a shepherd's bivouac, at 2800 in full winter.


I think it is always amazing to hear from and see panoramas from countries which show quite a different picture from what you generally expect from that country. I mean it might just be me but, yes, I knew there are mountain ranges in Morocco but I wasn't really aware of the height and what the landscape would look like.
I like the pylons in the valley because they give an added sense of scale.
2012/07/06 21:59 , Barcud Revnik
Greetings, Udo
2012/07/07 14:21 , Udo Schmidt
Yes, the pylons (incidentally: do not expect me to cancel pylons if on the field they do exist! Reality is one thing, fiction is one other) were also useful to set the orientation. But then the pylon-horizon was some 2°-3° different from the udeuschle-horizon; which one I trusted more you evince from the fact that in the final product the pylons lean somewhat (check on www.panoramio.com/photo/74957990)! By the way, it is a relief to see that those people, who have such a difficult life, have at least some facility. Did you also note the huge antenna? It is in the centre of the image, now I marked it. In Morocco it is amazing how the telephone has optimal reception in the remotest places, even on the summits of Toubkal and M'Goun. I heard that this was a work done with huge USA investments. I suspect that there is some strategical reason behind, I cannot imagine the Americans doing such work for charity...
Note: in the Panoramio version you can also spot on the track some dots; they are people going home. What they collected on these slopes during the day will surprise you; it can be seen in picasaweb.google.com/albertopedrotti/MaroccoNatale#5561050931012093810
2012/07/07 15:31 , Pedrotti Alberto
Hi Alberto - for me, this is the best of your Morocco panos so far - with the impressive colours, the interesting forms of erosion, and the road perfectly ending in the corner of the picture. I hope to go to Morocco in autumn, but as I won't be alone I will probably not make it to such remote areas. Cheers, Martin
2012/07/09 22:28 , Martin Kraus
Don't forget of your dream of the Jebel Sarhro - which is really a dream!
As for the "best" pano, I 80% agree with you, although perhaps my favourite remains N.6437. Consider, however, that I am very seldom 100% in tune with the web's judgement - 80% is already exceptionally high! The reason may be that I typically ask from pictures more "atmosphere" than some purported "beauty" or "perfection"... Actually, those few times that I look for "beautiful and perfect" photos I turn to the National Geographic site, not certainly to elsewhere on the web or, worst of all choices, to my own hard disk!!
In any case, as you point out, this pass does by no means lack atmosphere: whoever happens to come here, will not forget...
2012/07/11 12:02 , Pedrotti Alberto
Warm earth tones and fantastic structures - it's great how you present this unusual landscape!
2012/07/12 19:54 , Werner Schelberger

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Pedrotti Alberto

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